Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Soy un Cordobese por un mes


I'm back in the lovely city of Cordoba, which I visited for 3 days last year. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%B3rdoba,_Argentina It's the second largest city in Argentina, but way more chill than Buenos Aires. It was once more important than BA when Argentina was still a part of the viceroyalty of Peru and much money was to be made from silver coming out of Bolivia, along with all the attendant supplies needed for its extraction and transport via Lima. The Spanish later created the viceroyalty of the Rio De La Plata and BsAs eclipsed all the provinces and seriously slammed them economically, setting into motion a major historical problem and tension ever since. The Jesuits were big here in Cordoba, and the churches and other buildings are beautiful (libraries, chapels, a carmelite abbey, etc. I lucked into finding an apt smackdab in the middle of the historic sector, that includes a washing machine no less--anyone who's traveled weeks or months realizes the boon of this....see pic above). Of course, the Jesuits were kicked out after being too successful in their estancia businesses. The Jesuits were rabid about conversions and working the local Indians, but they were good about not killing them the way the Spanish and Portenos (people in BsAs) were in the habit of doing. See the excellent film, The Mission, which is about a Jesuit mission in the Missiones state in the northeast and outlines well the conflict between the Jesuits and the crown.
Above, you can see a memorial to the Cordobazo (student and worker uprising against the military dictatorship of General Ongania..http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cordobazo... and a memorial to the Malvinas debacle ...all Argentine maps show the Malvinas (aka the Falklands) as belonging to Argentina. It's a point of pride, and whatever you think about it, it was an embarrassing war for everyone and tragic for untrained young Argentine conscripts ...see my earlier post...http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Malvinas.. Thank goodness that era of Reagan, Thatcher, Pinochet and El Proceso is behind us, though the shamelessness, violence and general lack of humanity of all those past 'leaders' and 'neoliberals' continues to reverberate, and much they sowed has yet to be repaired. which leads us to....lovely little Alta Gracia and a boy who decided to take on the injustices rendered by such people....



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